Cosmetic Compositions

ABSTRACT

A cosmetic compositions including a crosspolymer obtained from copolymerization of at least two different polyols and at least one dicarboxylic acid and at least one fragrance.

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application claims the benefit of EP Patent Application Serial No.12198009.8, filed on 19 Dec. 2012, the benefit of the earlier filingdate of which is hereby claimed under 35 USC §119(a)-(d) and (f). Theapplication is hereby incorporated in its entirety as if fully set forthherein.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention

The present invention belongs to the area of perfume and fragrancecompositions and refers to new fixatives for long-lasting application.

2. Description of Related Art

It is clear that most consumers determine their personal care productpurchase based on two features: the promise of a claimed benefit and theappeal of the product's fragrance. Invariably, before the product iseven applied to the skin or hair, the consumer will smell the product.However, the appeal for a product's fragrance does not end with thatinitial whiff of the bottle.

The consumer expects the fragrance to last on the skin and hair for areasonable amount of time. Most fragrances are designed to provide aninitial “burst” of aroma upon application to the skin which then levelsoff providing the more uniform, less intense, characteristic “signature”of the perfume. Fragrances that are put on in early evening are usuallyexpected to last at least through the evening by the wearer.

For the most part, perfume oils are composed of a multitude of singlecomponents that together give the oil its characteristic signature. Thefinished fragrance or perfume oil is typically composed by a combinationof various odoriferous materials such as essential oils, extracts fromwoods, gums, flowers and other botanicals, resins, animal secretions, aswell as synthetic aromatic materials. Once blended, they exhibit whatare known as “top”, “middle” and “end” notes which all contribute to theconsumers perception of the fragrance at various times. The top note isthe first refreshing burst the consumer senses upon initial application.The end note is the essence of the fragrance which stays with the wearerfor a long time. The middle note is the perceived quality that bridgesthe top to the end notes. To make the fragrance last longer certainmaterials can be added by the perfumery chemist. These are known asfragrance fixatives. Typically, some of the materials used as fixativesare floral or botanical absolutes, concretes and resinoids, macrocyclicmusks, nitro musks and synthetics. Nevertheless, none of the fixativesknown from the state of the art fulfill the needs of the consumer.

It is also known to use controlled release systems in order to provide aconstant amount of fragrance to skin or hair. Examples encompasscapsules or complexes based on dexctrines, melamines or obtained bycoazervation of anionic and cationic polymers. However, said capsules orcomplexes are difficult to formulate into a fragrance composition andthe release is little controlled but depends on variable factors likesebum amount or sweat intensity.

Therefore, the object of the present invention has been to develop newlong-lasting fixatives for fragrance performance at 8 hours postapplication with limited fragrance reduction. More particularly, thefragrance intensity should not diminish over a period of less than 8hours and should remain “like just applied” at each of the followingintervals:

Initial fragrance at delivery

In-use fragrance—working product into skin/hair

In-use fragrance—immediately after rinsing skin/hair

At 4 hours (with damp skin/hair)

At 8 hours (with dry skin/hair)

At 8 hours with re-wetting of skin/hair

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

To facilitate an understanding of the principles and features of thevarious embodiments of the invention, various illustrative embodimentsare explained below. Although exemplary embodiments of the invention areexplained in detail, it is to be understood that other embodiments arecontemplated. Accordingly, it is not intended that the invention islimited in its scope to the details of construction and arrangement ofcomponents set forth in the following description or illustrated in thedrawings. The invention is capable of other embodiments and of beingpracticed or carried out in various ways. Also, in describing theexemplary embodiments, specific terminology will be resorted to for thesake of clarity.

It must also be noted that, as used in the specification and theappended claims, the singular forms “a,” “an” and “the” include pluralreferences unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. For example,reference to a component is intended also to include composition of aplurality of components. References to a composition containing “a”constituent is intended to include other constituents in addition to theone named.

Also, in describing the exemplary embodiments, terminology will beresorted to for the sake of clarity. It is intended that each termcontemplates its broadest meaning as understood by those skilled in theart and includes all technical equivalents which operate in a similarmanner to accomplish a similar purpose.

Ranges may be expressed herein as from “about” or “approximately” or“substantially” one particular value and/or to “about” or“approximately” or “substantially” another particular value. When such arange is expressed, other exemplary embodiments include from the oneparticular value and/or to the other particular value.

Similarly, as used herein, “substantially free” of something, or“substantially pure”, and like characterizations, can include both being“at least substantially free” of something, or “at least substantiallypure”, and being “completely free” of something, or “completely pure”.

By “comprising” or “containing” or “including” is meant that at leastthe named compound, element, particle, or method step is present in thecomposition or article or method, but does not exclude the presence ofother compounds, materials, particles, method steps, even if the othersuch compounds, material, particles, method steps have the same functionas what is named.

It is also to be understood that the mention of one or more method stepsdoes not preclude the presence of additional method steps or interveningmethod steps between those steps expressly identified. Similarly, it isalso to be understood that the mention of one or more components in acomposition does not preclude the presence of additional components thanthose expressly identified.

The materials described as making up the various elements of theinvention are intended to be illustrative and not restrictive. Manysuitable materials that would perform the same or a similar function asthe materials described herein are intended to be embraced within thescope of the invention. Such other materials not described herein caninclude, but are not limited to, for example, materials that aredeveloped after the time of the development of the invention.

A first object of the present invention is directed to a cosmeticcomposition comprising

(a) a crosspolymer obtained from copolymerization of at least twodifferent polyols and at least one dicarboxylic acid and

(b) at least one fragrance.

Surprisingly, it has been observed that the crosspolymers forming group(a) represent rather powerful fixatives for all kinds of fragrances,allowing a long lasting effect both for top and for base notes of aperfume, thus fulfilling the complex profile explained above.

Crosspolymers

Crosspolymers, suitable as long-lasting fixatives and forming component(a) are obtained from copolymerization of polyols comprising 3 to 10carbon atoms and 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups and dicarboxylic acids offormula (I),

HOOC-[A]_(n)COOH  (I)

in which A stands for a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated,aliphatic or aromatic hydrocarbyl radical having 1 to 20 carbon atomsand n represents either 0 or 1.

Suitable polyols, forming the first monomer, are selected from the groupconsisting of: glycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethyleneglycol, dipropylene glycol, pentaerythritol and trimethylpentandiol ortheir mixtures. The preferred polyols are glycerol, trimethylpentandioland their mixtures.

Suitable dicarboxylic acids representing the second monomer aretypically chosen from the group consisting of: oxalic acid, malonicacid, succinic acid, glutamic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, subericacid, azelaic acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, glutaconic acid, traumaticacid, muconic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalicacid or their mixtures. The preferred dicarboxylic acid is adipic acid.

Preferably, the crosspolymers contain the polyols and the dicarboxylicacids in a molar ratio of about 1:4 to about 4:1 and more preferably ofabout 1:2 to 2:1.

A by far preferred embodiment of the present invention is directed to acomposition, wherein said crosspolymer is a copolymerization product oftrimethylpentanediol, glycerol and adipic acid. Such products areavailable in the market under the trademark Lexorez® 200 from Inolex.This type of polymer is also known for sunscreen, tanning andexfoliating compositions, for skin lightening and insect repellents(U.S. Pat. No. 5,833,961, U.S. Pat. No. 5,989,527).

Fragrances

The fragrances forming component (b) can be used as single components orin the form of more or less complex mixtures. The species may beobtained from natural sources or prepared by organic synthesis.

Natural perfumes include the extracts of blossoms (lily, lavender, rose,jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli,petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel(bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery, cardamom,costus, iris, calmus), woods (pinewood, sandalwood, guaiac wood,cedarwood, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemon grass, sage,thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins andbalsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animalraw materials, for example civet and beaver, may also be used.

Typically, the synthetic fragrances represent aldehydes, ketones,alcohols, ethers, esters, hydrocarbons their mixtures. In the followingthese types of fragrances are illustrated but not limited by examples:

A. Aldehydes

Examples for suitable fragrances showing an aldehyde structure encompassmelonal, triplal, ligustral, adoxal, anisaldehyde, cymal, ethylvanillin,florhydral, floralozon, helional, heliotropin, hydroxycitronellal,koavon, laurinaldehyde, canthoxal, lyral, lilial, adoxal, anisaldehyde,cumal, methyl-nonyl-acetaldehyde, citronellal,citronellyloxy-acetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, bourgeonal,p-tert.-bucinal, phenylacetaldehyde, undecylenaldehyde, vanillin;2,6,10-trimethyl-9-undecenal, 3-dodecen-I-al, α-n-Amylzimtaldehyde,4-methoxy-benzaldehyde, benzaldehyde,3-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-propanal,2-methyl-3-(para-methoxy-phenylpropanal),2-methyl-4-(2,6,6-trimethyl-2(1)-cyclohexen-1-yl)butanal,3-phenyl-2-pro-penal,cis-/trans-3,7-dimethyl-2,6-octadien-I-al,3,7-dimethyl-6-octen-I-al,[(3,7-dimethyl-6-octenyl)-xy]-cetaldehyde,4-isopropylbenzyaldehyde,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octahydro-8,8-dimethyl-2-naphthaldehyde,2,4-dimethyl-3-cyclohexen-1-carboxyaldehyde,2-methyl-3-(isopropyl-phenyl)propanal, decyl aldehyde,2,6-dimethyl-5-heptenal; 4-(tricyclo[5.2.1.0(2,6)]-decylidene-8)-butanal;octahydro-4,7-methano-IH-indenecarboxaldehyde;3-ethoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, para-ethyl-alpha,alpha-dimethylhydrozimtaldehyde,α-methyl-3,4-(methylenedioxy)-hydrocinnamaldehyde,3,4-methylenedioxybenzaldehyde, α-n-hexyl-cinnamaldehyde,m-cymene-7-carboxaldehyde, α-methylphenylacetaldehyde,7-hydroxy-3,7-dimethyl octanal, undecenal,2,4,6-trimethyl-3-cyclohexene-I-carboxalde-hyde,4-(3)(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-3-cyclohexen-carboxaldehyde,1-dodecanal,2,4-dimethyl-cyclohexene-3-carboxaldehyde,4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)-3-cylohexene-I-carboxal-dehyde,7-methoxy-3,7-dimethyloctan-1-al, 2-methyl undecanal, 2-methyl decanal,1-nonanal, 1-octanal, 2,6,10-trimethyl-5,9-undecadienal,2-methyl-3-(4-tertbutyl)propanal,3-(4-ethylphenyl)-2,2-dimethylpropanal,3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-2-methylpropanal, methylno-nylacetaldehyde,2-phenylpropan-1-al, 3-phenylprop-2-en-1-al,3-phenyl-2-pentylprop-2-en-1-al, 3-phenyl-2-hexylprop-2-enal,3-(4-isopropylphenyl)-2-methylpropan-1-al,3-(4-ethylphenyl)-2,2-dimethylpropan-1-al,3-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-2-methyl-propanal,3-(3,4-Methylendioxy-phenyl)-2-methylpropan-1-al,3-(4-Ethylphenyl)-2,2-dimethylpropanal,3-(3-Isopropylphenyl)-butan-1-al,2,6-Dimethylhept-5-en-1-al,Dihydrozimtaldehyde,1-methyl-4-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-3-cyclohexene-1-carboxaldehyde, 5- or6-Methoxyhexahydro-4,7-methanoindan-1 or 2-carboxyaldehyde,3,7-dimethyloctan-1-al, 1-undecanal, 10-undecen-1-al,4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde,1-methyl-3-(4-methylpentyl)-3-cyclohexene-carboxyaldehyde,7-hydroxy-3,7-dimethyl-octanal; trans-4-decenal, 2,6-nonadienal,p-tolylacetaldehyde; 4-methylphenylacetaldehyde,2-methyl-4-(2,6,6-trimethyl-1-cyclohexen-1-yl)-2-butenal,o-methoxyzimtaldehyde, 3,5,6-trimethyl-3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde,3,7-dimethyl-2-methylene-6-octenal, phenoxyacetaldehyde;5,9-dimethyl-4,8-decadienal, peony aldehyde(6,10-dimethyl-3-oxa-5,9-undecadien-1-al),hexahydro-4,7-methanoindan-1-carboxaldehyde, octanal, 2-methyl octanal,alpha-methyl-4-(I-methylethyl)benzene-acetaldehyde,6,6-dimethyl-2-norpinene-2-propionaldehyde, p-methyl phenoxyacetaldehyde, 2-methyl-3-phenyl-2-propen-1-al, 3,5,5-trimethylhexanal,hexahydro-8,8-dimethyl-2-naphthaldehyde,3-propyl-bicyclo[2.2.1]-hept-5-ene-2-carbaldehyde, 9-decenal,3-methyl-5-phenyl-1-pentanal, methylnonyl acetaldehyde,1-p-menthene-q-carboxaldehyde, citral or its mixtures, lilial citral,1-decanal, n-undecanal, n-dodecanal, hlorhydral,2,4-dimethyl-3-cyclohexen-1-carboxaldehyde 4-methoxybenzaldehyde,3-methoxy-4-hydroxy-benzalde-hyde, 3-ethoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde,3,4-methylendioxybenzaldehyde, 3,4-dimethoxybenzaldehyde and theirmixtures.

As explained above, said ketones or said aldehydes may show analiphatic, cycloaliphatic, aromatic, ethylenically unsaturated structureor a mixture of these elements. The components may also includeheteroatoms or show a polycyclic structure. Suitable substitutes for allthese structures are hydroxyl and/or amino groups. Further fragrancesare compiled in the following document: Steffen Arctander, Published1960 and 1969 respectively, Reprinted 2000 ISBN: Aroma Chemicals Vol. 1:0-931710-37-5, Aroma Chemicals Vol. 2: 0-931710-38-3, which is herebyincorporated by reference.

B. Ketones

Examples for suitable fragrances showing a ketone structure encompassbuccoxime, iso jasmone, methyl beta naphthyl ketone, moschus indanone,tonalid/moschus plus, α-damascone, β-damascon, δ-damascone,Iso-damascone, damascenone, damarose, methyl-dihydrojasmonate, menthone,carvone, campher, fenchone, alphalonen, β-iononw, dihydro-β-Ionone,γ-methylionone, fleuramone, dihydrojasmone, cis-Jasmon, iso-E-Super,methyl cedrenylketone, or methyl cedrylon, acetophenone, methyl acetophenone, p-methoxyacetophenone, methyl-β-naphtyl ketone, benzylacetone,benzophenone, p-hydroxy phenylbutanone, celery Ketone or livescon,6-osopropyl-deca-hydro-2-naphtone, dimethyloctenone, freskomenth,4-(I-ethoxyvinyl)-3,3,5,5,-tetramethylv cyclohexanone, methylheptenone,2-(2-(4-Methyl-3-cyclohexen-1-yl)propyl)-cyclopentanone,1-(p-men-thene-6(2)-yl)-1-propanone,4-(4-Hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-2-butanone,2-Acetyl-3,3-di-methyl-norbornan,6,7-dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone, 4-damascol, dulcinylor cassione, gelsone, hexalone, isocyclemone E, Methylcyclocitrone,methyl lavender ketone, orivone, p-tert-butyl cyclohexanone, verdone,delphone, muscone, neobutenone, plicatone, veloutone,2,4,4,7-tetramethyl-oct-6-en-3-one, tetrameran, hedion and theirmixtures. The preferred ketones are selected from the group comprisingα-damascone, δ-damascone, iso-damascone, carvone, γ-methyl ionone,Iso-E-Super, 2,4,4,7-tetramethyl-oct-6-en-3-one, benzylacetone,β-damascone, damascenone, methyl dihydrojasmonate, methyl cedrylone,hedione and their mixtures

C. Alcohols

Suitable fragrance alcohols encompass for example 10-undecen-1-ol,2,6-dimethylheptan-2-ol, 2-methylbutanol,2-methylpentanol,2-phenoxyethanol, 2-phenylpropanol,2-tert-Butycyclohexanol, 3,5,5-trimethylcyclohexanol, 3-hexanol,3-methyl-5-phenylpentanol, 3-octanol, 1-octen-3-ol,3-phenylpropanol,4-heptenol, 4-isopropylcyclohexanol,4-tert-butycyclohexanol, 6,8-dimethyl-2-nonanol,6-nonen-1-ol,9-decen-1-ol, α-methyl benzylalcohol, α-terpineol, amylsalicylat, benzylalcohol, benzyl salicylate, β-terpineol, butyl salicylate, citronellol,cyclohexyl salicylate, decanol, dihydromyrcenol, dimethylbenzylcarbinol, dimethyl heptanol, dimethyl octanol, ethyl salicylate,ethyl vanilin, anethol, eugenol, geraniol, heptanol, hexyl salicylat,isoborneol, isoeugenol, isopulegol, linalool, menthol, myrtenol,n-hexanol, nerol, nonanol, octanol, para-menthan-7-ol,phenylethylalkohol, phenol, phenyl salicylat, tetrahydro geraniol,tetrahydro linalool, thymol, trans-2-cis-6-nonadienol,trans-2-nonen-1-ol, trans-2-octenol, undecanol, vanillin, cinnamalcoholand their mixtures.

D. Esters

Examples for suitable fragrances showing a ketone structure encompassbenzyl acetate, phenoxyisobutyrate, p-tert.-butylcyclohexylacetate,linalylacetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate (DMBCA),phenylethylacetate, benzylacetate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate,allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate, benzylsalicylate,cyclohexylsalicylate, floramat, melusat, jasmacyclatat and theirmixtures.

E. Ethers

Examples for suitable fragrances showing a ketone structure encompassbenzylethyl ether or ambroxan

F. Hydrocarbons

Examples for suitable fragrances representing hydrocarbons encompassterpenes, e.g. limonen and pinen.

The compositions according to the present invention may comprisecomponent (a) and (b) in a ratio by weight of about 1:99 to about 1:20,preferably about 1:80 to about 1:30, and more particularly about 1:70 to1:50. The two components (a+b) can be present in an amount sufficient toprovide an olfactory response of about 0.01 to about 5, preferably about0.1 to about 2%, and more preferred about 0.5 to 1% b.w.—calculated onthe total composition.

Another object of the present invention is directed to a fragrancecomposition comprising or essentially consisting of:

(a) a crosspolymer obtained from copolymerization of at least twodifferent polyols and at least one dicarboxylic acid, in particular acopolymerization product of trimethylpentanediol, glycerol and adipicacid, and

(b) at least one fragrance.

Another object of the present invention refers to a method for improvingthe lasting of perfume delivery, wherein a fragrance is blended with aworking amount of a crosspolymer obtained from copolymerization of atleast two different polyols and at least one dicarboxylic acid, and themixture thus obtained is applied to human skin or hair.

Finally, also the use of a crosspolymer obtained from copolymerizationof at least two different polyols and at least one dicarboxylic acid asfixative for fragrances represents an object of the invention.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICATION

The preparations according to the invention may contain surfactants, oilbodies, emulsifiers, superfatting agents, pearlizing waxes, consistencyfactors, polymers, silicone compounds, waxes, stabilizers, primary andsecondary sun protection agents, antidandruff agents, biogenic agents,film formers, swelling agents, hydrotropes, preservatives, solubilizers,complexing agents, reducing agents, alkalizing agents, dyes and the likeas additional auxiliaries and additives.

A. Surfactants

Other preferred auxiliaries and additives are anionic and/or amphotericor zwitterionic surfactants. Typical examples of anionic surfactants aresoaps, alkyl-benzene-sulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefin sulfonates,alkylether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, methyl estersulfonates, sulfofatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ethersulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxymixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide(ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylicacids and salts thereof, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acidsarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids such as, forexample, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acylaspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acidcondensates (particularly wheat-based vegetable products) and alkyl(ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol etherchains, they may have a conventional homolog distribution although theypreferably have a narrow-range homolog distribution. Typical examples ofamphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines,alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazoliniumbetaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are all knowncompounds. Information on their structure and production can be found inrelevant synoptic works, cf. for example J. Falbe (ed.), “Surfactants inConsumer Products”, Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pages 54 to 124 or J.Falbe (ed.), “Katalysatoren, Tenside and Mineralöladditive (Catalysts,Surfactants and Mineral Oil Additives)”, Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978,pages 123-217. The percentage content of surfactants in the preparationsmay be from 0.1 to 10% by weight and is preferably from 0.5 to 5% byweight, based on the preparation.

B. Oil Bodies

Suitable oil bodies, which form constituents of the O/W emulsions, are,for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18,preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, esters of linear C₆-C₂₂-fatty acidswith linear or branched C₆-C₂₂-fatty alcohols or esters of branchedC₆-C₁₃-carboxylic acids with linear or branched C₆-C₂₂-fatty alcohols,such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristylstearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate,myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate,cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearylmyristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate,stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl myristate,isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate,isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate, isostearyl oleate, oleylmyristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyloleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenylpalmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, behenyl oleate,behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate,erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate anderucyl erucate. Also suitable are esters of linear C₆-C₂₂-fatty acidswith branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters ofC₁₈-C₃₈-alkylhydroxy carboxylic acids with linear or branchedC₆-C₂₂-fatty alcohols, in particular Dioctyl Malate, esters of linearand/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as, forexample, propylene glycol, dimerdiol or trimertriol) and/or Guerbetalcohols, triglycerides based on C₆-C₁₀-fatty acids, liquidmono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on C₆-C₁₈-fatty acids, esters ofC₆-C₂₂-fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylicacids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C₂-C₁₂-dicarboxylic acidswith linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyolshaving 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils,branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branchedC₆-C₂₂-fatty alcohol carbonates, such as, for example, DicaprylylCarbonate (Cetiol® CC), Guerbet carbonates, based on fatty alcoholshaving 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, esters of benzoic acidwith linear and/or branched C₆-C₂₂-alcohols (e.g. Finsolv® TN), linearor branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as, for example, dicaprylyl ether(Cetiol® OE), ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters withpolyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicone methicone grades,etc.) and/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as, for example,squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.

C. Emulsifiers

Other surfactants may also be added to the preparations as emulsifiers,including for example:

-   -   products of the addition of 2 to 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or 0        to 5 mol propylene oxide onto linear C₈₋₂₂ fatty alcohols, onto        C₁₂₋₂₂ fatty acids and onto alkyl phenols containing 8 to 15        carbon atoms in the alkyl group;    -   C_(12/18) fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition        products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto glycerol;    -   glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of        saturated and unsaturated fatty acids containing 6 to 22 carbon        atoms and ethylene oxide addition products thereof;    -   addition products of 15 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil        and/or hydrogenated castor oil;    -   polyol esters and, in particular, polyglycerol esters such as,        for example, polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol        poly-12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimerate isostearate.        Mixtures of compounds from several of these classes are also        suitable;    -   addition products of 2 to 15 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil        and/or hydrogenated castor oil;    -   partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or        saturated C_(6/22) fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and        12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, polyglycerol,        pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (for example        sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (for example methyl glucoside, butyl        glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (for example        cellulose);    -   mono-, di and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and/or        tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and salts thereof;    -   wool wax alcohols;    -   polysiloxane/polyalkyl polyether copolymers and corresponding        derivatives;    -   mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and        fatty alcohol and/or mixed esters of C₆₋₂₂ fatty acids, methyl        glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol,    -   polyalkylene glycols and    -   glycerol carbonate.

The addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide ontofatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diestersand sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or onto castor oil areknown commercially available products. They are homologue mixtures ofwhich the average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratiobetween the quantities of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide andsubstrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. C_(12/18)fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of ethyleneoxide onto glycerol are known as lipid layer enhancers for cosmeticformulations. The preferred emulsifiers are described in more detail asfollows:

-   (i) Partial glycerides. Typical examples of suitable partial    glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic    acid diglyceride, isostearic acid monoglyceride, isostearic acid    diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride,    ricinoleic acid monoglyceride, ricinoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic    acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride, linolenic acid    monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acid    monoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride,    tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric acid    diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and    technical mixtures thereof which may still contain small quantities    of triglyceride from the production process. Addition products of 1    to 30 and preferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxide onto the partial    glycerides mentioned are also suitable.-   (ii) Sorbitan esters. Suitable sorbitan esters are sorbitan    monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate,    sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate,    sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate,    sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan dierucate, sorbitan trierucate,    sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan sesquiricinoleate, sorbitan    diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan    monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan    dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan    monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan    tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan    dicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan    sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and technical    mixtures thereof. Addition products of 1 to 30 and preferably 5 to    10 mol ethylene oxide onto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also    suitable.-   (iii) Polyglycerol esters. Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol    esters are Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH),    Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), Polyglyceryl-4    Isostearate (Isolan® GI 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl    Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3    Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax    (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate    T2010/90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane NL), Polyglyceryl-3    Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate    (Admul® WOL 1403), Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and mixtures    thereof. Examples of other suitable polyolesters are the mono-, di-    and triesters of trimethylol propane or pentaerythritol with lauric    acid, cocofatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic    acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like optionally reacted with    1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide.-   (iv) Anionic emulsifiers. Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic    C₁₂₋₂₂ fatty acids, such as palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic    acid for example, and C₁₂₋₂₂ dicarboxylic acids, such as azelaic    acid or sebacic acid for example.-   (v) Amphoteric emulsifiers. Other suitable emulsifiers are    amphboteric or zwitterionic surfactants. Zwitterionic surfactants    are surface-active compounds which contain at least one quaternary    ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group    in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are    the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium    glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate,    N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example    cocoacylaminopropyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, and    2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines containing 8 to    18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethyl    hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. The fatty acid amide    derivative known under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is    particularly preferred. Ampholytic surfactants are also suitable    emulsifiers. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds    which, in addition to a C_(8/18) alkyl or acyl group, contain at    least one free amino group and at least one —COOH— or —SO₃H— group    in the molecule and which are capable of forming inner salts.    Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkyl glycines,    N-alkyl propionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids,    N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyl    glycines, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkyl sarcosines,    2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids containing    around 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly    preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate,    cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C_(12/18) acyl sarcosine.

D. Superfatting Agents and Consistency Factors

Superfatting agents may be selected from such substances as, forexample, lanolin and lecithin and also polyethoxylated or acylatedlanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters,monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, the fatty acid alkanolmidesalso serving as foam stabilizers.

The consistency factors mainly used are fatty alcohols or hydroxyfattyalcohols containing 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms andalso partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. Acombination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and/or fattyacid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and/or polyglycerolpoly-12-hydroxystearates is preferably used.

E. Thickening Agents and Rheology Additives

Suitable thickeners are polymeric thickeners, such as Aerosil® types(hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, more especially xanthan gum,guar-guar, agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose andhydroxyethyl cellulose, also relatively high molecular weightpolyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of fatty acids,polyacrylates (for example Carbopols® [Goodrich] or Synthalens®[Sigma]), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone,surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides,esters of fatty acids with polyols, for example pentaerythritol ortrimethylol propane, narrow-range fatty alcohol ethoxylates andelectrolytes, such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.

F. Polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulosederivatives such as, for example, the quaternized hydroxyethyl celluloseobtainable from Amerchol under the name of Polymer JR 400®, cationicstarch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides,quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl imidazole polymers such as, forexample, Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols andamines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as, for example,Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Lamequat® L, Griinau),quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic siliconepolymers such as, for example, amodimethicone, copolymers of adipic acidand dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine®,Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl diallyl ammoniumchloride (Merquat® 550, Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides and crosslinkedwater-soluble polymers thereof, cationic chitin derivatives such as, forexample, quaternized chitosan, optionally in microcrystallinedistribution, condensation products of dihaloalkyls, for exampledibromobutane, with bis-dialkylamines, for examplebis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum such as, for example,Jaguar®CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 of Celanese, quaternized ammoniumsalt polymers such as, for example, Miranol® A-15, Miranol® AD-1,Miranol® AZ-1 of Miranol and the various polyquaternium types (forexample 6, 7, 32 or 37) which can be found in the market under thetradenames Rheocare® CC or Ultragel® 300.

Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are,for example, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate/butylmaleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinylether/maleicanhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked andpolyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl trimethylammoniumchloride/acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide/methylmethacrylate/tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxypropylmethacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinylacetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate/vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatizedcellulose ethers and silicones.

G. Pearlizing Waxes

Suitable pearlizing waxes are, for example, alkylene glycol esters,especially ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid alkanolamides,especially cocofatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, especiallystearic acid monoglyceride; esters of polybasic, optionallyhydroxysubstituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols containing 6 to22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; fattycompounds, such as for example fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fattyaldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates which contain in all atleast 24 carbon atoms, especially laurone and distearylether; fattyacids, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ringopening products of olefin epoxides containing 12 to 22 carbon atomswith fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or polyolscontaining 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixturesthereof

H. Silicones

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethyl polysiloxanes,methylphenyl polysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-,alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and/oralkyl-modified silicone compounds which may be both liquid andresin-like at room temperature. Other suitable silicone compounds aresimethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chainlength of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates.A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can be found in Toddet al. in Cosm. Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

I. Waxes and Stabilizers

Besides natural oils used, waxes may also be present in thepreparations, more especially natural waxes such as, for example,candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, espartograss wax, cork wax,guaruma wax, rice oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax,beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), uropygial fat,ceresine, ozocerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes andmicrowaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes) such as, for example,montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and syntheticwaxes such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycolwaxes.

Metal salts of fatty acids such as, for example, magnesium, aluminiumand/or zinc stearate or ricinoleate may be used as stabilizers.

J. Primary Sun Protection Factors

Primary sun protection factors in the context of the invention are, forexample, organic substances (light filters) which are liquid orcrystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbingultraviolet radiation and of releasing the energy absorbed in the formof longer-wave radiation, for example heat.

The formulations according to the invention advantageously contain atleast one UV-A filter and/or at least one UV-B filter and/or a broadbandfilter and/or at least one inorganic pigment. Formulations according tothe invention preferably contain at least one UV-B filter or a broadbandfilter, more particularly preferably at least one UV-A filter and atleast one UV-B filter.

Preferred cosmetic compositions, preferably topical formulationsaccording to the present invention comprise one, two, three or more sunprotection factors selected from the group consisting of 4-aminobenzoicacid and derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, benzophenonederivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, diphenyl acrylates,3-imidazol-4-yl acrylic acid and esters thereof, benzofuran derivatives,benzylidene malonate derivatives, polymeric UV absorbers containing oneor more organosilicon radicals, cinnamic acid derivatives, camphorderivatives, trianilino-s-triazine derivatives,2-hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole derivatives, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonicacid derivatives and salts thereof, anthranilic acid menthyl esters,benzotriazole derivativesand indole derivatives.

In addition, it is advantageous to combine compounds of formula (I) withactive ingredients which penetrate into the skin and protect the skincells from inside against sunlight-induced damage and reduce the levelof cutaneous matrix metalloproteases. Preferred respective ingredients,so called arylhydrocarbon receptor antagonists, are described in WO2007/128723, incorporated herein by reference. Preferred is2-benzylidene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one.

The UV filters cited below which can be used within the context of thepresent invention are preferred but naturally are not limiting.

UV filters which are preferably used are selected from the groupconsisting of:

-   p-aminobenzoic acid-   p-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (25 mol) ethoxylated (INCI name:    PEG-25 PABA)-   p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester-   p-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (2 mol) N-propoxylated-   p-aminobenzoic acid glycerol ester-   salicylic acid homomenthyl ester (homosalates) (Neo Heliopan®HMS)-   salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan®OS)-   triethanolamine salicylate-   4-isopropyl benzyl salicylate-   anthranilic acid menthyl ester (Neo Heliopan®MA)-   diisopropyl cinnamic acid ethyl ester-   p-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan®AV)-   diisopropyl cinnamic acid methyl ester-   p-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester (Neo Heliopan®E 1000)-   p-methoxycinnamic acid diethanolamine salt-   p-methoxycinnamic acid isopropyl ester-   2-phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and salts (Neo Heliopan®Hydro)-   3-(4′-trimethylammonium)benzylidene bornan-2-one methyl sulfate-   beta-imidazole-4(5)-acrylic acid (urocanic acid)-   3-(4′-sulfo)benzylidene bornan-2-one and salts-   3-(4′-methyl benzylidene)-D,L-camphor (Neo Heliopan®MBC)-   3-benzylidene-D,L-camphor-   N-[(2 and 4)[2-(oxoborn-3-ylidene) methyl]benzyl]acrylamide polymer-   4,4′-[(6-[4-(1,1-dimethyl)aminocarbonyl)    phenylamino]-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl)diimino]-bis-(benzoic    acid-2-ethylhexyl ester) (Uvasorb®HEB)-   benzylidene malonate polysiloxane (Parsol®SLX)-   glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate-   dipropylene glycol salicylate-   tris(2-ethylhexyl)-4,4′,4″-(1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)tribenzoate    (=2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethylhexyl-1′-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine)    (Uvinul®T150)

Broadband filters which are preferably combined with one or morecompounds of formula (I) in a preparation according to the presentinvention are selected from the group consisting of:

-   2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (Neo Heliopan®303)-   ethyl-2-cyano-3,3′-diphenyl acrylate-   2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (Neo Heliopan®BB)-   2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid-   dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-   2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone-   tetrahydroxybenzophenone-   2,2′-dihydroxy-4,4′-dimethoxybenzophenone-   2-hydroxy-4-n-octoxybenzophenone-   2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methyl benzophenone-   sodium hydroxymethoxybenzophenone sulfonate-   disodium-2,2′-dihydroxy-4,4′-dimethoxy-5,5′-disulfobenzophenone-   phenol,    2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3(1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-(trimethylsilyl)oxy)disiloxyanyl)propyl)    (Mexoryl®XL)-   2,2′-methylene    bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol)    (Tinosorb®M)-   2,4-bis-[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-1,3,5-triazine-   2,4-bis-[{(4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine    (Tinosorb®S)-   2,4-bis-[{(4-(3-sulfonato)-2-hydroxypropyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine    sodium salt-   2,4-bis-[{(3-(2-propyloxy)-2-hydroxypropyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine-   2,4-bis-[{4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-[4-(2-methoxyethyl    carbonyl) phenylamino]-1,3,5-triazine-   2,4-bis-[{4-(3-(2-propyloxy)-2-hydroxypropyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-[4-(2-ethylcarboxyl)    phenylamino]-1,3,5-triazine-   2,4-bis-[{4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(1-methylpyrrol-2-yl)-1,3,5-triazine-   2,4-bis-[{4-tris-(trimethylsiloxysilylpropyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine-   2,4-bis-[{4-(2″-methylpropenyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine-   2,4-bis-[{4-(1′,1′,1′,3′,5′,5′,5′-heptamethylsiloxy-2″-methylpropyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine

UV-A filters which are preferably combined with one or more compounds offormula (I) in a preparation according to the present invention areselected from the group consisting of:

-   4-isopropyl dibenzoyl methane-   terephthalylidene dibornane sulfonic acid and salts (Mexoryl®SX)-   4-t-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoyl methane (avobenzone)/(Neo    Heliopan®357)-   phenylene bis-benzimidazyl tetrasulfonic acid disodium salt (Neo    Heliopan®AP)-   2,2′-(1,4-phenylene)-bis-(1H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid),    monosodium salt-   2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid hexyl ester (Uvinul®    A Plus)-   indanylidene compounds in accordance with DE 100 55 940 A1 (=WO 2002    038537 A1)

UV filters which are more preferably combined with one or more compoundsof formula (I) in a preparation according to the present invention areselected from the group consisting of:

-   p-aminobenzoic acid-   3-(4′-trimethylammonium)benzylidene bornan-2-one methyl sulfate-   salicylic acid homomenthyl ester (Neo Heliopan®HMS)-   2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (Neo Heliopan®BB)-   2-phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Neo Heliopan®Hydro)-   terephthalylidene dibornane sulfonic acid and salts (Mexoryl®SX)-   4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoyl methane (Neo Heliopan®357)-   3-(4′-sulfo)benzylidene bornan-2-one and salts-   2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (Neo Heliopan®303)-   N-[(2 and 4)[2-(oxoborn-3-ylidene) methyl]benzyl]acrylamide polymer-   p-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan®AV)-   p-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (25 mol) ethoxylated (INCI name:    PEG-25 PABA)-   p-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester (Neo Heliopan®E1000)-   2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethylhexyl-1′-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine    (Uvinul®T150)-   phenol,    2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3(1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-(trimethylsilyl)oxy)disiloxyanyl)    propyl) (Mexoryl®XL)-   4,4′-[(6-[4-(1,1-dimethyl)aminocarbonyl)    phenylamino]-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl)diimino]-bis-(benzoic    acid-2-ethylhexyl ester) (Uvasorb®HEB)-   3-(4′-methyl benzylidene)-D,L-camphor (Neo Heliopan®MBC)-   3-benzylidene camphor-   salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan®OS)-   4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Padimate O)-   hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and Na salt-   2,2′-methylene    bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol)    (Tinosorb®M)-   phenylene bis-benzimidazyl tetrasulfonic acid disodium salt (Neo    Heliopan®AP)-   2,4-bis-[{(4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine    (Tinosorb®S)-   benzylidene malonate polysiloxane (Parsol®SLX)-   menthyl anthranilate (Neo Heliopan®MA)-   2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid hexyl ester (Uvinul®    A Plus)-   indanylidene compounds in accordance with DE 100 55 940 (=WO    02/38537).

Advantageous primary and also secondary sun protection factors arementioned in WO 2005 123101 A1. Advantageously, these preparationscontain at least one UVA filter and/or at least one UVB filter and/or atleast one inorganic pigment. The preparations may be present here invarious forms such as are conventionally used for sun protectionpreparations. Thus, they may be in form of a solution, an emulsion ofthe water-in-oil type (W/O) or of the oil-in-water type (0/W) or amultiple emulsion, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water type(W/O/W), a gel, a hydrodispersion, a solid stick or else an aerosol.

In a further preferred embodiment a formulation according to theinvention contains a total amount of sunscreen agents, i.e. inparticular UV filters and/or inorganic pigments (UV filtering pigments)so that the formulation according to the invention has a lightprotection factor of greater than or equal to 2 (preferably greater thanor equal to 5). Such formulations according to the invention areparticularly suitable for protecting the skin and hair.

H. Secondary Sun Protection Factors

Besides the groups of primary sun protection factors mentioned above,secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type may also beused. Secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type interruptthe photochemical reaction chain which is initiated when UV rayspenetrate into the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (for exampleglycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophane) and derivatives thereof,imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof,peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine andderivatives thereof (for example anserine), carotinoids, carotenes (forexample alpha-carotene, beta-carotene, lycopene) and derivativesthereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, liponic acid andderivatives thereof (for example dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose,propylthiouracil and other thiols (for example thioredoxine,glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and glycosyl, N-acetyl,methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl,alpha-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof) and theirsalts, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate,thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides,lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds(for example butionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninesulfones, penta-, hexa- and hepta-thionine sulfoximine) in very smallcompatible dosages, also (metal) chelators (for examplealpha-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrine),alpha-hydroxy acids (for example citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid),humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTAand derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof(for example linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivativesthereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C andderivatives thereof (for example ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbylphosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (for examplevitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) andconiferyl benzoate of benzoin resin, rutinic acid and derivativesthereof, glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol,carnosine, butyl hydroxytoluene, butyl hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacresin acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uricacid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof,superoxide dismutase, titanium dioxide (for example dispersions inethanol), zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO, ZnSO₄),selenium and derivatives thereof (for example selenium methionine),stilbenes and derivatives thereof (for example stilbene oxide,trans-stilbene oxide) and derivatives of these active substancessuitable for the purposes of the invention (salts, esters, ethers,sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids).

Advantageous inorganic secondary light protection pigments are finelydispersed metal oxides and metal salts which are also mentioned in WO2005 123101 A1. The total quantity of inorganic pigments, in particularhydrophobic inorganic micro-pigments in the finished cosmeticpreparation according to the present invention is advantageously from0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight, in each casebased on the total weight of the preparation.

Also preferred are particulate UV filters or inorganic pigments, whichcan optionally be hydrophobed, can be used, such as the oxides oftitanium (TiO₂), zinc (ZnO), iron (Fe₂O₃), zirconium (ZrO₂), silicon(SiO₂), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminium (Al₂O₃), cerium (e.g. Ce₂O₃)and/or mixtures thereof.

J. Anti-Ageing Actives

In the context of the invention, anti-ageing or biogenic agents are, forexample antioxidants, matrix-metalloproteinase inhibitors (MMPI), skinmoisturizing agents, glycosaminglycan stimulkators, anti-inflammatoryagents, TRPV1 antagonists and plant extracts.

-   (i) Antioxidants. amino acids (preferably glycine, histidine,    tyrosine, tryptophane) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles    (preferably urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides,    preferably D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives    thereof (preferably anserine), carnitine, creatine, matrikine    peptides (preferably lysyl-threonyl-threonyl-lysyl-serine) and    palmitoylated pentapeptides, carotenoids, carotenes (preferably    alpha-carotene, beta-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof,    lipoic acid and derivatives thereof (preferably dihydrolipoic acid),    aurothioglucose, propyl thiouracil and other thiols (preferably    thioredoxine, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and    glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl,    palmitoyl, oleyl, gamma-linoleyl, cholesteryl, glyceryl and    oligoglyceryl esters thereof) and salts thereof, dilauryl    thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid    and derivatives thereof (preferably esters, ethers, peptides,    lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine    compounds (preferably buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine    sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine    sulfoximine) in very small tolerated doses (e.g. pmol to μmol/kg),    also (metal) chelators (preferably alpha-hydroxy fatty acids,    palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin, alpha-hydroxy acids    (preferably citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile    acid, bile extracts, tannins, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and    derivatives thereof), unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives    thereof (preferably gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic    acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and    derivatives thereof, ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C    and derivatives (preferably ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl    phosphate, ascorbyl acetate, ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherols and    derivatives (preferably vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and    derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoic    resin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, flavonoids and    glycosylated precursors thereof, in particular quercetin and    derivatives thereof, preferably alpha-glucosyl rutin, rosmarinic    acid, carnosol, carnosolic acid, resveratrol, caffeic acid and    derivatives thereof, sinapic acid and derivatives thereof, ferulic    acid and derivatives thereof, curcuminoids, chlorogenic acid and    derivatives thereof, retinoids, preferably retinyl palmitate,    retinol or tretinoin, ursolic acid, levulinic acid, butyl    hydroxytoluene, butyl hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac acid,    nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and    derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, zinc and    derivatives thereof (preferably ZnO, ZnSO₄), selenium and    derivatives thereof (preferably selenium methionine), superoxide    dismutase, stilbenes and derivatives thereof (preferably stilbene    oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives (salts, esters,    ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of    these cited active ingredients which are suitable according to the    invention or extracts or fractions of plants having an antioxidant    effect, preferably green tea, rooibos, honeybush, grape, rosemary,    sage, melissa, thyme, lavender, olive, oats, cocoa, ginkgo, ginseng,    liquorice, honeysuckle, sophora, pueraria, pinus, citrus,    Phyllanthus emblica or St. John's wort, grape seeds, wheat germ,    Phyllanthus emblica, coenzymes, preferably coenzyme Q10,    plastoquinone and menaquinone. Preferred antioxidants are selected    from the group consisting of: vitamin A and derivatives, vitamin C    and derivatives, tocopherol and derivatives, preferably tocopheryl    acetate, and ubiquinone.-   (ii) Matrix-Metalloproteinase inhibitors (MMPI). Preferred    compositions comprise matrix-metalloproteinase inhibitors,    especially those inhibiting matrix-metalloproteinases enzymatically    cleaving collagen, selected from the group consisting of: ursolic    acid, retinyl palmitate, propyl gallate, precocenes,    6-hydroxy-7-methoxy-2,2-dimethyl-1(2H)-benzopyran,    3,4-dihydro-6-hydroxy-7-methoxy-2,2-dimethyl-1(2H)-benzopyran,    benzamidine hydrochloride, the cysteine proteinase inhibitors    N-ethylmalemide and epsilon-amino-n-caproic acid of the    serinprotease inhibitors: phenylmethylsufonylfluoride, collhibin    (company Pentapharm; INCI: hydrolysed rice protein), oenotherol    (company Soliance; INCI: propylene glycol, aqua, Oenothera biennis    root extract, ellagic acid and ellagitannins, for example from    pomegranate), phosphoramidone hinokitiol, EDTA, galardin, EquiStat    (company Collaborative Group; apple fruit extract, soya seed    extract, ursolic acid, soya isoflavones and soya proteins), sage    extracts, MDI (company Atrium; INCI: glycosaminoglycans), fermiskin    (company Silab/Mawi; INCI: water and Lentinus edodes extract),    actimp 1.9.3 (company Expanscience/Rahn; INCI: hydrolysed lupine    protein), lipobelle soyaglycone (company Mibelle; INCI: alcohol,    polysorbate 80, lecithin and soy isoflavones), extracts from green    and black tea and further plant extracts, which are listed in WO 02    069992 A1 (see tables 1-12 there, incorporated herein by reference),    proteins or glycoproteins from soya, hydrolysed proteins from rice,    pea or lupine, plant extracts which inhibit MMPs, preferably    extracts from shitake mushrooms, extracts from the leaves of the    Rosaceae family, sub-family Rosoideae, quite particularly extracts    of blackberry leaf (preferably as described in WO 2005 123101 A1,    incorporated herein by reference) as e.g. SymMatrix (company    Symrise, INCI: Maltodextrin, Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Leaf    Extract). Preferred actives of are selected from the group    consisting of: retinol palmitate, ursolic acid, extracts from the    leaves of the Rosaceae family, sub-family Rosoideae, genistein and    daidzein.-   (III) Skin-moisturizing agents. Preferred skin moisturizing agents    are selected from the group consisting of: alkane diols or alkane    triols comprising 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably C₃-C₁₀-alkane    diols and C₃-C₁₀-alkane triols. More preferably the skin    moisturizing agents are selected from the group consisting of:    glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene    glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol and    1,2-decanediol.-   (iv) Glycosaminoglycan stimulators. Preferred compositions comprise    substances stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans selected    from the group consisting of: hyaluronic acid and derivatives or    salts, Subliskin (Sederma, INCI: Sinorhizobium Meliloti Ferment    Filtrate, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lecithin), Hyalufix (BASF,    INCI: Water, Butylene Glycol, Alpinia galanga leaf extract, Xanthan    Gum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride), Stimulhyal (Soliance, INCI:    Calcium ketogluconate), Syn-Glycan (DSM, INCI: Tetradecyl    Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Glycerin,    Magnesium chloride), Kalpariane (Biotech Marine), DC Upregulex    (Distinctive Cosmetic Ingredients, INCI: Water, Butylene Glycol,    Phospholipids, Hydrolyzed Sericin), glucosamine, N-acetyl    glucosamine, retinoids, preferably retinol and vitamin A, Arctium    lappa fruit extract, Eriobotrya japonica extract, Genkwanin,    N-Methyl-L-serine, (-)-alpha-bisabolol or synthetic alpha-bisabolol    such as e.g. Dragosantol and Dragosantol 100 from Symrise, oat    glucan, Echinacea purpurea extract and soy protein hydrolysate.    Preferred actives are selected from the group consisting of:    hyaluronic acid and derivatives or salts, retinol and derivatives,    (-)-alpha-bisabolol or synthetic alpha-bisabolol such as e.g.    Dragosantol and Dragosantol 100 from Symrise, oat glucan, Echinacea    purpurea extract, Sinorhizobium Meliloti Ferment Filtrate, Calcium    ketogluconate, Alpinia galanga leaf extract and tetradecyl    aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate.-   (v) Anti-inflammatory agents. The compositions may also contain    anti-inflammatory and/or redness and/or itch ameliorating    ingredients, in particular steroidal substances of the    corticosteroid type selected from the group consisting of:    hydrocortisone, dexamethasone, dexamethasone phosphate, methyl    prednisolone or cortisone, are advantageously used as    anti-inflammatory active ingredients or active ingredients to    relieve reddening and itching, the list of which can be extended by    the addition of other steroidal anti-inflammatories. Non-steroidal    anti-inflammatories can also be used. Examples which can be cited    here are oxicams such as piroxicam or tenoxicam; salicylates such as    aspirin, disalcid, solprin or fendosal; acetic acid derivatives such    as diclofenac, fenclofenac, indomethacin, sulindac, tolmetin or    clindanac; fenamates such as mefenamic, meclofenamic, flufenamic or    niflumic; propionic acid derivatives such as ibuprofen, naproxen,    benoxaprofen or pyrazoles such as phenylbutazone, oxyphenylbutazone,    febrazone or azapropazone. Anthranilic acid derivatives, in    particular avenanthramides described in WO 2004 047833 A1, are    preferred anti-itch ingredients in a composition according to the    present invention.    -   Also useful are natural or naturally occurring anti-inflammatory        mixtures of substances or mixtures of substances that alleviate        reddening and/or itching, in particular extracts or fractions        from camomile, Aloe vera, Commiphora species, Rubia species,        willow, willow-herb, oats, calendula, arnica, St John's wort,        honeysuckle, rosemary, Passiflora incarnata, witch hazel, ginger        or Echinacea; preferably selected from the group consisting of:        extracts or fractions from camomile, Aloe vera, oats, calendula,        arnica, honeysuckle, rosemary, witch hazel, ginger or Echinacea,        and/or pure substances, preferably alpha-bisabolol, apigenin,        apigenin-7-glucoside, gingerols, shogaols, gingerdiols,        dehydrogingerdiones, paradols, natural or naturally occurring        avenanthramides, preferably tranilast, avenanthramide A,        avenanthramide B, avenanthramide C, non-natural or non-naturally        occurring avenanthramides, preferably dihydroavenanthramide D,        dihydroavenanthramide E, avenanthramide D, avenanthramide E,        avenanthramide F, boswellic acid, phytosterols, glycyrrhizin,        glabridin and licochalcone A; preferably selected from the group        consisting of: alpha-bisabolol, natural avenanthramides,        non-natural avenanthramides, preferably dihydroavenanthramide D        (as described in WO 2004 047833 A1), boswellic acid,        phytosterols, glycyrrhizin, and licochalcone A, and/or        allantoin, panthenol, lanolin, (pseudo-)ceramides [preferably        Ceramide 2, hydroxypropyl bispalmitamide MEA, cetyloxypropyl        glyceryl methoxypropyl myristamide,        N-(1-hexadecanoyl)-4-hydroxy-L-proline (1-hexadecyl) ester,        hydroxyethyl palmityl oxyhydroxypropyl palmitamide],        glycosphingolipids, phytosterols, chitosan, mannose, lactose and        β-glucans, in particular 1,3-1,4-β-glucan from oats.-   (vi) TRPV1 antagonists. Suitable compounds which reduce the    hypersensitivity of skin nerves based on their action as TRPV1    antagonists, encompass e.g. trans-4-tert-butyl cyclohexanol as    described in WO 2009 087242 A1, or indirect modulators of TRPV1 by    an activation of the μ-receptor, e.g. acetyl tetrapeptide-15, are    preferred.-   (vii) Botanical extracts. The compositions may also contain various    extracts of plants, such as for example extracts of Ginkgo biloba,    Oleacea europensis, Glyzyrrhiza glabra, Vaccinium myrtillus,    Trifolium pratense, Litchi sinensis, Vitis, vinifera, Brassica    oleracea, Punica granatum, Petroselinium crispum, Centella asiatica,    Passiflora incarnate, Medicago sativa, Melissa officinalis,    Valeriana officinalis, Castanea sativa, Salix alba and Hapagophytum    procumbens.

K. Cooling Agents

The compositions may also contain one or more substances with aphysiological cooling effect (cooling agents), which are preferablyselected here from the following list: menthol and menthol derivatives(for example L-menthol, D-menthol, racemic menthol, isomenthol,neoisomenthol, neomenthol) menthylethers (for example(I-menthoxy)-1,2-propandiol, (1-menthoxy)-2-methyl-1,2-propandiol,1-menthyl-methylether), menthylesters (for example menthylformiate,menthylacetate, menthylisobutyrate, menthyllactates,L-menthyl-L-lactate, L-menthyl-D-lactate, menthyl-(2-methoxy)acetate,menthyl-(2-methoxyethoxy)acetate, menthylpyroglutamate),menthylcarbonates (for example menthylpropyleneglycolcarbonate,menthylethyleneglycolcarbonate, menthylglycerolcarbonate or mixturesthereof), the semi-esters of menthols with a dicarboxylic acid orderivatives thereof (for example mono-menthylsuccinate,mono-menthylglutarate, mono-menthylmalonate, O-menthyl succinic acidester-N,N-(dimethyl)amide, O-menthyl succinic acid ester amide),menthanecarboxylic acid amides (in this case preferablymenthanecarboxylic acid-N-ethylamide [WS3] orN^(α)-(menthanecarbonyl)glycinethylester [WS5], as described in U.S.Pat. No. 4,150,052, menthanecarboxylic acid-N-(4-cyanophenyl)amide ormenthanecarboxylic acid-N-(4-cyanomethylphenyl)amide as described in WO2005 049553 A1, methanecarboxylic acid-N-(alkoxyalkyl)amides), menthoneand menthone derivatives (for example L-menthone glycerol ketal),2,3-dimethyl-2-(2-propyl)-butyric acid derivatives (for example2,3-dimethyl-2-(2-propyl)-butyric acid-N-methylamide [WS23]), isopulegolor its esters (I-(-)-isopulegol, I-(-)-isopulegolacetate), menthanederivatives (for example p-menthane-3,8-diol), cubebol or synthetic ornatural mixtures, containing cubebol, pyrrolidone derivatives ofcycloalkyldione derivatives (for example3-methyl-2(1-pyrrolidinyl)-2-cyclopentene-1-one) ortetrahydropyrimidine-2-one (for example iciline or related compounds, asdescribed in WO 2004/026840), further carboxamides (for exampleN-(2-(pyridin-2-yl)ethyl)-3-p-menthanecarboxamide or related compounds),(1R,2S,5R)—N44-Methoxyphenyl)-5-methyl-241-isopropyl)cyclohexane-carboxamide[WS12], oxamates (preferably those described in EP 2033688 A2).

L. Anti-Microbial Agents

Suitable anti-microbial agents are, in principle, all substanceseffective against Gram-positive bacteria, such as, for example,4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters,N-(4-chlorophenyl)-N′-(3,4-dichlorophenyl)urea,2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (triclosan),4-chloro-3,5-dimethyl-phenol, 2,2′-methylenebis(6-bromo-4-chlorophenol),3-methyl-4(1-methylethyl)phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chloro-phenol,3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-1,2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate,chlorhexidine, 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterialfragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, oil of cloves, menthol, mintoil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprate, glycerolmonocaprylate, glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprate (DMC),salicylic acid N-alkylamides, such as, for example, n-octylsalicylamideor n-decylsalicylamide.

M. Enzyme Inhibitors

Suitable enzyme inhibitors are, for example, esterase inhibitors. Theseare preferably trialkyl citrates, such as trimethyl citrate, tripropylcitrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and, in particular,triethyl citrate (Hydagen CAT). The substances inhibit enzyme activity,thereby reducing the formation of odor. Other substances which aresuitable esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as,for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol andsitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and esters thereof,such as, for example, glutaric acid, monoethyl glutarate, diethylglutarate, adipic acid, monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acidand diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and esters thereof, suchas, for example, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyltartrate, and zinc glycinate.

N. Odor Absorbers and Antiperspirant Active Agents

Suitable odor absorbers are substances which are able to absorb andlargely retain odor-forming compounds. They lower the partial pressureof the individual components, thus also reducing their rate ofdiffusion. It is important that perfumes must remain unimpaired in thisprocess. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. Theycomprise, for example, as main constituent, a complex zinc salt ofricinoleic acid or specific, largely odor-neutral fragrances which areknown to the person skilled in the art as “fixatives”, such as, forexample, extracts of labdanum or styrax or certain abietic acidderivatives. The odor masking agents are fragrances or perfume oils,which, in addition to their function as odor masking agents, give thedeodorants their respective fragrance note. Perfume oils which may bementioned are, for example, mixtures of natural and syntheticfragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts from flowers, stems andleaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needlesand branches, and resins and balsams. Also suitable are animal products,such as, for example, civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic fragrancecompounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol,and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, forexample, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Theethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, and the aldehydesinclude, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde,hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones include, forexample, the ionones and methyl cedryl ketone, the alcohols includeanethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linaool,phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, and the hydrocarbons include mainlythe terpenes and balsams. Preference is, however, given to usingmixtures of different fragrances which together produce a pleasingfragrance note. Essential oils of relatively low volatility, which aremostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g.sage oil, camomile oil, oil of cloves, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamonleaf oil, linden flower oil, juniperberry oil, vetiver oil, olibanumoil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil. Preference is given tousing bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol,phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone,cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole,hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amylglycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin oil, clary sage oil, β-damascone,geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix coeur,iso-E-super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid,geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilat, irotyl andfloramat alone or in mixtures.

Suitable astringent antiperspirant active ingredients are primarilysalts of aluminium, zirconium or of zinc. Such suitable antihydroticactive ingredients are, for example, aluminium chloride, aluminiumchlorohydrate, aluminium dichlorohydrate, aluminium sesquichlorohydrateand complex compounds thereof, e.g. with 1,2-propylene glycol, aluminiumhydroxyallantoinate, aluminium chloride tartrate, aluminium zirconiumtrichlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminiumzirconium pentachlorohydrate and complex compounds thereof, e.g. withamino acids, such as glycine.

O. Film Formers and Anti-Dandruff Agents

Standard film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystallinechitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acidseries, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid andsalts thereof and similar compounds.

Suitable antidandruff agents are Pirocton Olamin(1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-(1H)-pyridinonemonoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (Climbazole), Ketoconazol®(4-acetyl-1-{4-[2-(2,4-dichlorophenyl)r-2-(1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl)-1,3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl}-piperazine,ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, colloidal sulfur, sulfurpolyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinol polyethoxylate,sulfur tar distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination withhexachlorophene), undecylenic acid, monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate Nasalt, Lamepon® UD (protein/undecylenic acid condensate), zincpyrithione, aluminium pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione/dipyrithionemagnesium sulfate.

P. Carriers and Hydrotropes

Preferred cosmetics carrier materials are solid or liquid at 25° C. and1013 mbar (including highly viscous substances) as for example glycerol,1,2-propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol,1,3-butylene glycol, ethanol, water and mixtures of two or more of saidliquid carrier materials with water. Optionally, these preparationsaccording to the invention may be produced using preservatives orsolubilizers. Other preferred liquid carrier substances, which may be acomponent of a preparation according to the invention are selected fromthe group consisting of: oils such as vegetable oil, neutral oil andmineral oil.

Preferred solid carrier materials, which may be a component of apreparation according to the invention are hydrocolloids, such asstarches, degraded starches, chemically or physically modified starches,dextrins, (powdery) maltodextrins (preferably with a dextrose equivalentvalue of 5 to 25, preferably of 10-20), lactose, silicon dioxide,glucose, modified celluloses, gum arabic, ghatti gum, traganth, karaya,carrageenan, pullulan, curdlan, xanthan gum, gellan gum, guar flour,carob bean flour, alginates, agar, pectin and inulin and mixtures of twoor more of these solids, in particular maltodextrins (preferably with adextrose equivalent value of 15-20), lactose, silicon dioxide and/orglucose.

In addition, hydrotropes, for example ethanol, isopropyl alcohol orpolyols, may be used to improve flow behavior. Suitable polyolspreferably contain 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxylgroups. The polyols may contain other functional groups, more especiallyamino groups, or may be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

-   -   glycerol;    -   alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol,        diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene        glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight        of 100 to 1000 Dalton;    -   technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of        self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as for example technical        diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by        weight;    -   methylol compounds such as, in particular, trimethylol ethane,        trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol and        dipentaerythritol;    -   lower alkyl glucosides, particularly those containing 1 to 8        carbon atoms in the alkyl group, for example methyl and butyl        glucoside;    -   sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example        sorbitol or mannitol,    -   sugars containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example glucose or        sucrose;    -   amino sugars, for example glucamine;    -   dialcoholamines, such as diethanolamine or        2-aminopropane-1,3-diol.

Q. Preservatives

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehydesolution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes ofcompounds listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Kosmetikverordnung(“Cosmetics Directive”).

R. Dyes

Suitable dyes are any of the substances suitable and approved forcosmetic purposes as listed, for example, in the publication“Kosmetische Färbemittel” of the Farbstoffkommission der DeutschenForschungsgemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pages 81 to 106.Examples include cochineal red A (C.I. 16255), patent blue V (C.I.42051), indigotin (C.I. 73015), chlorophyllin (C.I. 75810), quinolineyellow (C.I. 47005), titanium dioxide (C.I. 77891), indanthrene blue RS(C.I. 69800) and madder lake (C.I. 58000). Luminol may also be presentas a luminescent dye. Advantageous coloured pigments are for exampletitanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (e.g. Fe₂O₃ Fe₃O₄, FeO(OH)) and/ortin oxide. Advantageous dyes are for example carmine, Berlin blue,chromium oxide green, ultramarine blue and/or manganese violet.

Preferred compositions according to the present inventions are selectedfrom the group of products for treatment, protecting, care and cleansingof the skin and/or hair or as a make-up product, preferably as aleave-on product (meaning that the one or more compounds of formula (I)stay on the skin and/or hair for a longer period of time, compared torinse-off products, so that the moisturizing and/or anti-ageing and/orwound healing promoting action thereof is more pronounced).

The formulations according to the invention are preferably in the formof an emulsion, e.g. W/O (water-in-oil), O/W (oil-in-water), W/O/W(water-in-oil-in-water), O/W/O (oil-in-water-in-oil) emulsion, PITemulsion, Pickering emulsion, emulsion with a low oil content, micro- ornanoemulsion, a solution, e.g. in oil (fatty oils or fatty acid esters,in particular C₆-C₃₂ fatty acid C₂-C₃₀ esters) or silicone oil,dispersion, suspension, creme, lotion or milk, depending on theproduction method and ingredients, a gel (including hydrogel,hydrodispersion gel, oleogel), spray (e.g. pump spray or spray withpropellant) or a foam or an impregnating solution for cosmetic wipes, adetergent, e.g. soap, synthetic detergent, liquid washing, shower andbath preparation, bath product (capsule, oil, tablet, salt, bath salt,soap, etc.), effervescent preparation, a skin care product such as e.g.an emulsion (as described above), ointment, paste, gel (as describedabove), oil, balsam, serum, powder (e.g. face powder, body powder), amask, a pencil, stick, roll-on, pump, aerosol (foaming, non-foaming orpost-foaming), a deodorant and/or antiperspirant, mouthwash and mouthrinse, a foot care product (including keratolytic, deodorant), an insectrepellent, a sunscreen, aftersun preparation, a shaving product,aftershave balm, pre- and aftershave lotion, a depilatory agent, a haircare product such as e.g. shampoo (including 2-in-1 shampoo,anti-dandruff shampoo, baby shampoo, shampoo for dry scalps,concentrated shampoo), conditioner, hair tonic, hair water, hair rinse,styling creme, pomade, perm and setting lotion, hair spray, styling aid(e.g. gel or wax), hair smoothing agent (detangling agent, relaxer),hair dye such as e.g. temporary direct-dyeing hair dye, semi-permanenthair dye, permanent hair dye, hair conditioner, hair mousse, eye careproduct, make-up, make-up remover or baby product.

The formulations according to the invention are particularly preferablyin the form of an emulsion, in particular in the form of a W/O, O/W,W/O/W, O/W/O emulsion, PIT emulsion, Pickering emulsion, emulsion with alow oil content, micro- or nanoemulsion, a gel (including hydrogel,hydrodispersion gel, oleogel), a solution e.g. in oil (fatty oils orfatty acid esters, in particular C₆-C₃₂ fatty acid C₂-C₃₀ esters)) orsilicone oil, or a spray (e.g. pump spray or spray with propellant).

Auxiliary substances and additives can be included in quantities of 5 to99% b.w., preferably 10 to 80% b.w., based on the total weight of theformulation. The amounts of cosmetic or dermatological auxiliary agentsand additives and perfume to be used in each case can easily bedetermined by the person skilled in the art by simple trial and error,depending on the nature of the particular product.

The preparations can also contain water in a quantity of up to 99% b.w.,preferably 5 to 80% b.w., based on the total weight of the preparation.

EXAMPLES Example 1, Comparative Example C1

Two Eau de Toilette Sprays were prepared. According to the invention 5%b.w. Lexorez® 200 as the fixative were added to 200 g of the perfumeCologne Chic containing 12% b.w. fragrance (Composition A). Forcomparison a Composition B was prepared by substituting Lexorez 200 bythe standard fixative dipropylene glycol. The two sprays were tested inamounts of 0.14 g by a group of 20 volunteers. On the right forearms thereference spray was applied, on the left forearm the spray according tothe invention. The panellists were asked to decide which sample was moreintensive and rate the intensity on a scale from 0 (no effect) to 10(very strong. The results are reflected in Table 1. Example 1 isaccording to the invention, Example C1 serves for comparison.

TABLE 1 Comparison of fixatives Example 21; Example C1: Composition AComposition B Time after Choice by Choice by application panellists¹Intensity panellists Intensity t = 0 13 7.5 6 7.0 t = 1 h 13 6.5 5 6.0 t= 4 h 12 5.5 6 5.0 t = 8 h 12 4.5 7 3.8 ¹In some cases the choice do notadd to 20; the difference stands for the number of panellists beingunable to detect any difference between the compositions

The examples clearly demonstrate that by far more panellists regardedthe inventive composition to be more intensive. With respect tointensity also the absolute figures show that the inventive compositionis superior compared to the reference.

Example 2, Comparative Example C2

For the following examples two fragrances were used:

-   I) Eau de Gingembre fragrance, containing a high portion of top    notes, while the base notes are removed; and-   II) Féminité du Bois fragrance, containing a high portion of base    notes, while the top notes are removed.

Again, sprays comprising 12% b.w. fragrance and 5% b.w. fixative wereprepared as explained above and a panel of 20 volunteers was asked toevaluate intensity of the fragrance delivery. The results are compiledin Table 2. Example 2 is according to the invention, Example C2 servesfor comparison.

TABLE 2 Comparison of fixatives Example 2 Example C3 Time after Choiceby Choice by application panellists Intensity panellists IntensityFragrance I (Top notes) t = 0 12 7.5 7 7.1 t = 1 h 13 6.5 6 6.0 t = 4 h12 4.8 6 4.2 t = 8 h 16 3.8 3 2.5 Fragrance II (Base notes) t = 0 8 7.58 7.5 t = 1 h 10 7.0 7 7.0 t = 4 h 10 5.2 9 5.1 t = 8 h 11 4.3 6 4.0

Also the additional examples clearly demonstrate that by far morepanellists regarded the inventive composition to be more intensive. Withrespect to intensity also the absolute figures show that the inventivecomposition is superior compared to the reference, particular withregard to top notes of a perfume.

Example 3, Comparative Example C3

The Compositions A and B of Example 1/C1 were subjected to HeadspaceGC/MS after 1 and after 4 hours according to the following procedure:0.14 g of the two compositions was sprayed onto a glass plate heated to33° C. (skin temperature). The products were subjected for 20 minutes tostabilization, another 20 minutes to extraction. Desorption took placewithin 1.5 min, then the GC-MS analysis followed using Agilent with apolar column. The relative intensity of the two compositions wasdetermined by summing up all peak areas. The results are shown in Table3. Example 3 is according to the invention, Example C3 serves forcomparison. Shown are the average values of ten test runs.

TABLE 3 Total peak areas Example 3: Example C3: Total peak areaComposition A Composition B t = 1 h  4*10⁴  3*10³ t = 4 h <1*10² <1*10²

The examples indicate that after 1 h the amount of molecules ofComposition A in the head space was about 10 times higher than for thereference Composition B. For 4 h the standard abbreviation for thecalculated numbers was too high, so that no trend could be observed.

What is claimed is:
 1. A cosmetic composition comprising a crosspolymerobtained from copolymerization of at least two different polyols and atleast one dicarboxylic acid; and at least one fragrance.
 2. Thecomposition of claim 1, wherein the crosspolymer is obtained fromcopolymerization of polyols comprising 3 to 10 carbon atoms and 1 to 6hydroxyl groups.
 3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the polyols areselected from the group consisting of: glycerol, ethylene glycol,propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentaerythritoland trimethylpentandiol or their mixtures.
 4. The composition of claim1, wherein the crosspolymer is obtained from dicarboxylic acids offormula (I):HOOC-[A]_(n)COOH  (I) wherein A stands for a linear or branched,saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic hydrocarbyl radicalhaving 1 to 20 carbon atoms; and wherein n represents either 0 or
 1. 5.The composition of claim 1, wherein the crosspolymer is obtained fromdicarboxylic acids selected from the group consisting of: oxalic acid,malonic acid, succinic acid, glutamic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid,suberic acid, azelaic acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, glutaconic acid,traumatic acid, muconic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid andterephthalic acid or their mixtures.
 6. The composition of claim 1,wherein the crosspolymer contains the polyols and the dicarboxylic acidsin a molar ratio of about 1:4 to about 4:1.
 7. The composition of claim1, wherein the crosspolymer is a copolymerization product oftrimethylpentanediol, glycerol and adipic acid.
 8. The composition ofclaim 1, wherein the natural fragrances are selected from the groupconsisting of: extracts blossoms, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peel,roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and, resins and balsams oranimal sources and their mixtures.
 9. The composition of claim 1,wherein the synthetic fragrances are selected from the group ofaldehydes, ketones, alcohols, ethers, esters, hydrocarbons and theirmixtures.
 10. The composition of claim 1, wherein the crosspolymer andfragrance are present in a ratio by weight of about 1:99 to about 1:20.11. The composition of claim 1, wherein the crosspolymer and fragranceare present in an amount sufficient to provide an olfactory response ofabout 0.01 to about 5% b.w.—calculated on the total composition.
 12. Afragrance composition consisting essentially of: a crosspolymer obtainedfrom copolymerization of at least two different polyols and at least onedicarboxylic acid and at least one fragrance.
 13. The composition ofclaim 12, wherein the crosspolymer is a copolymerization product oftrimethylpentanediol, glycerol and adipic acid.
 14. A method forimproving the lasting of perfume delivery comprising: blending afragrance with a working amount of a crosspolymer obtained fromcopolymerization of at least two different polyols and at least onedicarboxylic acid; and applying the blend to human skin or hair.